Sunday, October 16, 2011


It's the law of the surf. When you can't go it's guaranteed to be good. I'm post nose surgery - out of the water for two weeks, and like clockwork the swell is rising and the winds switching offshore. I'd just like to clarify this was a nose surgery of the non cosmetic variety. Purely for functional reasons. I keep telling everyone I'm getting my boobs done next, double D's.

So I can't surf but I figured I'd pop down to the beach today anyway and go for a splash and a gentle walk. The sticky Australian summer heat is finally back and it felt pretty good to bust out the bikini and sunscreen. I went and sat down at the dog beach at Leighton in Freo. A while ago they built an artificial reef a little distance offshore, and I can honestly say I have never seen it really going. Today it was kind of doing its thing, the winds were howling offshore but there were definitely some fun looking rights rolling through.

It's T minus 5 days until my return to the surfing world. When I'm out of the water for a while I always dream of the first duckdive. Not the first wave. Just that first leap in and pushing under, feeling the cold rush of water.

They say when life gives you lemons make lemonade, but I make lemon meringue pie. I have been embracing my landlocked domesticated side. I baked this creation for Dad's birthday this afternoon, even using fresh eggs from our friend's farm.
Travel bum turning Martha Stewart homemaker? Not likely.

Monday, October 3, 2011

A Tuesday Surf Check

5:30am Tuesday surf check.

Waves: Ankle biters

Winds: Pretty nice

Chill Factor: Not too bad, but I'm in a 4'3

Crowd Factor: School holidays, what do you reckon? Grom infestation!

My Need for a Coffee: Desperate.