Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Turning 5

2008. A girl and a backpack, South Island NZ

This week is another celebration. It marks 5 wonderful year on the road. At least I think it does. My mum and I are trying to count it out now but neither of us are quite sure, it's been so long!  Originally I left for a one month trip with my backpack, surfboard and about $1500 in the bank. Around 17 countries and a lot of good waves later and I'm still going!

There's so many stories. So many stories and I don't want to forget them all.

But for now here's a little video kindly created by my dear friend Jose. He's very good at what he does, I'm fortunate to be able to work with him!

Friday, September 21, 2012

Mi Feliz CumpleaƱos!!!

Birthdays in my experience can be a let down. They’re like these hyped up things, but when they roll around it feels like just another day.

But this year, this year’s was a whole different story. First off, I ticket over into my second quarter of a century. Shit! How did that happen? I still feel like I’m 18.  So how should one celebrate this undeniable process of aging? With a trip to surf the World’s longest left, of course!

Chicama and I have a serious love affair going. We first met on a magazine trip almost 5 months ago. She lies about a 10 hour bus ride south of where I’m living in Northern Peru. So two days before my birthday I set off, leaving the Lodge to fend for itself. I opted to for the 9pm night bus so I could catch some shuteye and arrive bright and early for the morning session.

The bus sucked. I’m chicken bus broken in, so it really takes a lot for me to say that. But eight and a half hours with no toilet and no toilet stop is not ok. The brochure lied. The seats were tiny, but the worst part was how ridiculously back they reclined, completely squishing the person behind them. This resulted in a bus full of three quarters lying back trapped passengers. I couldn’t even reach my bag at my feet.

But a miserable overnight bus is a small price to pay. It was the only little blip of a challenge in an otherwise completely mind-blowingly perfect trip. What do you know, birthdays can feel special! And here is why:

1). Waves: Long. Left. Empty. Perfection.

2). A Blinging Hotel: As a gift I got to stay in the insanely lush Chicama Surf Resort. Best hotel I’ve been at in my life. Also the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in. And then there’s the steam room, the sauna, the hot tubs… 

3). Food: For breakfast I had French toast, pancakes, scrambled eggs, fruit… then at lunch a cake bigger than my head. Spoilt.

4). WSSM: Got to see for the first time the latest issue of WSSM. Holding six months of hard work in your hands is a wonderful feeling.

5). A Proposal!!!! (not mine, don’t worry). But seriously! I met the most lovely Aussie couple on my bus ride from hell, Shorty and Mel, and on the night of my bday they got engaged. We were all sitting around playing guitar and having beers when he got down on one knee and popped the question. It was so special to share such an important moment with them.

The exact spot where Shorty popped the question to Mel. Cuties! 

6). Internet love: So much Facebook love. It was overwhelming. The outpour of beautiful happy birthday messages was just incredible. This birthday marks five years of travel and meeting amazing people all over the globe. I feel so blessed.

So that’s it for me, the perfect birthday at the longest left in the world. It doesn’t get any better than that. I can’t help but think every single day - I’m one seriously lucky girl. 

First 25 down, many more to go :) 
Getting my birthday wave on

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

My View

Morning coffee with a view. Seriously. This is EXACTLY what I'm staring at RIGHT NOW. And the best part? The photos don't even do it justice. I've got half an hour until my staff arrive and I can paddle out. So I'm sitting. Watching. Waiting.

It's going to be a good day.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Blue Moon

Blue moon rising at the lodge

Esta semana en Lobitos. Life is plodding along as usual. The waves peel and the wind blows. This week started off small then the swell grew and grew. Coupled with an intense full moon it's making for some extreme conditions. There's something about a full moon though. Could it be the large percentage of body fluids in our structure?

Three nights ago my Aussie friends and I went for a 1am full moon surf. Somehow, all the way in Peru, I found two other surfer girls from my home town Perth - Kelly and Rachael. Lobitos has a serious testosterone problem and there are hardly any females in the lineup. But it's a good place for a girl to boost her ego. When you're the only foreign chicks in town everyone seems that little bit more friendly.

Half way through our night surf the town's power went out. It was beautiful. Sitting out there looking to shore and everything goes black.

My Aussie girls left on the bus yesterday so now it's back to only me. Only me and a hotel full of guests.

Baby wave cruising