Friday, January 28, 2011


Check out my latest writing, a travel piece in Women's Surf Style Magazine. Pick up a copy from Borders, Barns and Noble, Hollister and other places. Thank you to Sandra and Dan Olson for your support I'm so stoked to see my work in print! And as always big thanks and love to my awesome and patient photographer Dave Gregerson. He somehow manages to capture that split second when I almost look good on a wave! Above is a shot of his from Oahu this winter :) Also a quick hello and thanks to Mark Magennis who edits my work for me, this writing stuff is a whole lot harder than I thought. Ahh this sounds like an Oscars speech!!!

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Southern Love

This is Mrs Chops. She is one of the many obstacles in bush golf. Actually that's not quite true, we award extra points for the accidental hitting of livestock with a golf ball. Don't worry their wool is thick, no harm done I promise. Bush golf is one of my favorite things about spending time in the Margaret River region in South Western Australia. My Aunt and Uncle built a 9 hole golf course across the paddocks on their beautiful rural property. The clubs are rusty, the ground uneven and golfing skills really have little to do with things. You can hit what seems like a great shot until it lands in a pile of alpaca poo and rolls into the fire break. Then there is the "green" (it's more brown) that has been dug up by all the kangaroos... We have a good laugh though and finish up with sunset beers on the balcony.

My other favorite thing about being South is the surf. I had been out of the water for a few weeks and it felt so good to get some waves again. Even though it's summer the waves were a fun consistent 3 feet, and if I got up around 4am and hit the beach early there were no crowds. The picture below is of a fun little West Oz peak with only 2 guys out. After everywhere I have been around the world I still think some of the most beautiful beaches in the world are here, with the most amazing soft white sand and bright blue water. The only bad thing was having to drive past 3 major bush fires. Mum made me pack a fire retardant wool blanket and large water container in the back of the jeep. After a week and a half of getting my surf fix I headed about 8 hours inland into the desert for a few days but I'll cover that in my next post. You will just have to wait until then. Here are some pictures from the South West. I am having so much fun being a tourist in my home country :)

Sunday, January 9, 2011


Perth in the summer is a lot hotter than I remember. And it hasn't even hit the forties yet! It's my first time home in a few years. I've gone from a small tropical island to a really, really big flat island. It tripped me out on the flight from Sydney to Perth just how big and flat Australia is. The view from the plane window was just flat and as far as the eye could see. I tried to take a picture but it doesn't quite capture it.

Being home again is good/weird/fun/hot! The best thing has been unpacking my clothes, to actually have everything hanging in a closet is SO exciting! The only sad thing is my dog. I have waited years to see her and a few days before my return her health took a bad turn. She is still with us but is sick, she falls over all the time and seems to tilt her head to the side. She is almost deaf and blind and seems to be losing the motor skills on one half of her body. I call her lopsided dog. Here is a photo of her. Tomorrow I am heading down to Margaret River for my first surf in weeks so hopefully I will have some good waves to report about :) I'm very excited, after all my travels I still feel like South Western Australia is one of the most beautiful surf kissed places in the world. Below are some pictures from my friends Russian Christmas I attended in Wollongong on Friday. Great food, lots of vodka and drunk cheerful Russians, it doesn't get any better than that!

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Meat pies and plane flights

Dear 2010. I lost you. I lost you somewhere crossing the date line between Hawaii and Australia. We didn't even get to say goodbye. No send off with a big kiss and a glass of bubbly, just an airplane full of people. I am leaving behind in Kauai family, friend, friends who became family, and a little piece of my heart in the warm island waters.

I departed in my usual fashion which means a whirlwind of stress and disorganization. I still haven't sold my truck, nor shut down my P.O. Box. Hey, if anyone wants to buy an island truck mine has a small forest growing out of the rust. Check out the picture! Once again I somehow fit all my worldly possessions into a backpack, board bag and guitar case. I am fearful that my board bag is bursting at the seams. It looks like it's pregnant. Four surfboards got left behind, casualties of baggage charges. Picking two out of six was like choosing which children to keep.

I have been in Sydney for a few days now staying with some family friends. They are giving me Aussie lingo lessons as I seem to have forgotten my native vocabulary. Thongs are flip flops, a rubbish bin is the trash can, a sweater is a jumper and for goodness sake it's a petrol station not a gas station! Then there is the whole being on left side of the road. My dad tells me to be very careful crossing the road as I will look the wrong way and get run over. Just wait until I start driving again..... haha. I'm going to stick a post-it note on my steering wheel saying "stay on the left"! A few days ago I ate my first meat pie in two and a half year. It was great. The highlight of staying at my friends house though is the wildlife. Every morning I feed the native birds and every night a really cute possum visits and we feed it fruit cake. Yesterday I went to see the Sydney Opera House, the bridge and an amazing interactive sculpture set up just next to the Opera House.

On Friday I get the pleasure of attending my first Russian Christmas here too which I imagine involves good food and lots of vodka! The only thing I'm missing is waves. It has been weeks and weeks since I've surfed and I'm starting to feel it. But that is nothing a trip down to Margaret River can't fix when I return home to Western Australia in a few days. Aloha Australia... It's good to be back!

Happy New Years everyone xox