Sunday, May 6, 2012

Living Lefts




My legs are in pain. Not just my legs, but every little bit of skin not protected by my spring suit. It was a war zone out there. Like dodging landmines. I'm talking about a serious jellyfish infestation. At one point a giant one wrapped itself around my legs and got stuck in my leash.

So why would I put myself in such an unpleasant position? The answer is simple - the world's longest left.

Chicama. The stuff dreams are made of. I've been blessed to surf many long breaks, but this place is something else. There's this huge bay. And these lines. These big lines just roll. They wrap. And the wave goes forever.

You take off outside a big rock. It's like ok, a few turns, doing good. Then another one, then a cut back. Now my legs are tired. I'll just sit back on this wave and watch the people go past. Then it hits a section so I'll start racing. Now I'm tired again. I'm flying past heads bobbing the water. There goes another boat. I squeeze in a few more turns then watch as the wave races away from me. I'm too tired and slow to keep up anymore.

Yesterday I had the longest wave of my life. It must have gone for a kilometer.

Now if that wasn't enough check out the place I'm staying at with the magazine, Chicama Surf Resort (http://chicamasurf.com/). They wash and dry your wetsuit, and the hot tub and sauna are patiently awaiting your return from the surf. And then there's the boat. After the longest ride of your life it picks you up and drops you right back at the peak.

Today is the last day of my work trip. Time to kiss goodbye the life of surf resort luxury. Time to welcome the return of the dodgy budget accommodation and chicken busses. But most importantly it's time to make a decision. Do I stay or do I go?


Well hello there world's longest left

How big was the jelly fish? This big!


Local Peruvian dinners

The one and only Chicama Surf Resort http://chicamasurf.com/




3 comments:

  1. Stay with Us Tia

    ReplyDelete
  2. Killer photos, Tia!!! You make that lime green car look epic. Ha ha. those neon color styles from the old surf magazines are back in i think. neon windbreakers! cheers!

    ReplyDelete
  3. The lime green car looked epic without me already! I still like the fluoro watch the best. Pretty sure I had one of them in primary school.

    ReplyDelete